Harvest Moon Set

Harvest Moon Set

Ravelry Page

Hat –

Mitts –

$6.00 – 


• Hat: Kid (Adult Small, Adult Large)

• Mitts: Adult Small (Adult Large)

Finished Measurements:

• Hat:

• 18 (20, 22)” ribbing stretched

• 12 (14, 16)” ribbing unstretched

• 7 (8, 9)” length

• Mitts:

• 6 (7)” around hand above thumb

• 8 (8.5)” total length

Materials: 1 skein (430 yards/100 grams) EACH two colors of Old Maiden Aunt Merino Superwash 4ply (100% Merino)

Sample Colors:

• Main Color – Midnight Owl

• Contrast Color – Put On The Day


• Hat:

• size US 1.5 (2.5 mm) 16” circular needles

• size US 4 (3.5 mm) 16” circular needles, or size needed for gauge

• size US 4 (3.5 mm) double-pointed needles

• Mitts:

• size US 1.5 (2.5 mm) double-pointed needles, or size needed for gauge


• 1 stitch marker for hat

• 3 stitch markers for mitts

• extra double-pointed needles for the tubular bind off on the mitts

• tapestry needle for weaving in ends


• Hat (larger needles):

• 24 sts and 56 rows over 4” in garter stitch

• 28 sts and 36 rows over 4” in stockinette stitch

• Mitts (smaller needles):

• 30 sts and 72 rows over 4” in garter stitch

• 35 sts and 46 rows over 4” in stockinette stitch


The Hat and Mitts begin with a Tubular Cast On, and the Mitts end with a Tubular Cast Off. The written instructions will take you through these techniques, but there is also a photo tutorial for the cast on at the end of the pattern.

Although you are working in the round, the CO requires you to work the first several rows back and forth. The tail from your CO will be plenty to seam up this small area after you begin working in the round.

In order to have a seamless spiral in garter stitch with no jogs at the end of the round, you’ll have four strands of yarn working around each item at one time. There is a knit MC, a purl MC, a knit CC, and a purl CC. These yarns will always be the same, i.e. you will always be purling with the Contrast Color when you’re holding the CCP.

The EOR marker will stay in the same place. When you switch between yarns you drop what you were working with and then slip up to the new working strand. There should not be any floats. It may be easier to leave the purl strands to the front of the work, rather than bringing them back when you are finished with them.

As much as I like working from both ends of a center-pull ball, it is much easier to divide your yarn into four separate balls for this project.

Rows are not spelled out stitch by stitch; you establish the pattern and stick with it. The knitting will go more smoothly if you trust yourself and the pattern. You can view a video of this technique at my website, www.doviejayknits.com.